Archive for the 'Culture and Society' Category

The Exile, Now ExileD, Returns

Monday, July 14th, 2008

 the-exiled.JPG

The exile is back…sort of. Newly reincarnated as the exileD, it is run out of “Putin-proof” Panama.

Fuelled by paypal donations from readers, the first edition came out on July 14, Bastille Day.  

Exile fans can be reassured, at least for now: despite bitter avowals to quit Russia for good, the issue contained the familiar by-lines of Edward Limonov, Mark Ames and War Nerd, a typically hard hitting article on political prisoners, and plenty of photos of scantily clad Russian girls, covered in mud.

Has Russia Turned…

Tuesday, July 8th, 2008

russia-is-boring.JPG

 

Gone are the heady heroin nights of the nineties, and with them, many of the expats who had come East to trade in the drudgery of their suburban lives for a more visceral, tragic version of humanity.

russian-dance-girls.JPG

Now that the country brims with the Toyota Priuses (Prii? Priux?), hipsters, libel laws, Time Out Magazine, nuclear families, decent sushi and the other assorted petit bourgeois nightmares of back home, what’s the point of putting up with a scary government and summary bureaucracy?

starbaks.JPG

Indeed, to witness non-oligarchs holidaying abroad, taking up sales and marketing jobs and driving new model Ladas or even Peugeots can be very bittersweet. No matter how clichéd, the question begs asking: has the well-adjusted middle class life that has enriched the hitherto threadbare existence of so many (though still not even remotely the majority of) Russians cost us that self-destructive, protean, brooding, extremist yet spiritual truth seeking poetry - borne of suffering, longing, deception and isolation?

Has Russia lost, in a word…its SOUL??!

More chillingly, has said Soul been sold to a rentier state whose petrodollars drown questions of illegitimacy and oppression in the warm, moist umbilical fluid of light sweet crude?

russian-soul.JPG

Not quite! And here’s why:

1. The 90s Paradox:

The libertinism of moral clarity and/or cheap drugs, anarchy and play that the expat rebels revelled in proved catastrophic for their Russia’s own Rimbauds.

In fact, the Soviet enfants terribles of the 1980s: young guys trapped in obscure think tanks penning underground verse or music, hippies and political dissidents who shocked and shamed their bankrupt system in the same way that the Exile shamed and shocked its own, could not survive in the new climate.

nautilus-pompilius.JPG
Their rock music – filigreed, cryptic and high maintenance - didn’t stand a chance against Aerosmith or the Spice Girls. In a country drowning its collective sorrow in endless re-runs of Santa Barbara and The Bold and the Beautiful, no-one had the time or money for their now-permitted protest literature. Their well paying research jobs, at which they could comfortably sit and write, disappeared. Many sold out; for others, despair and the dulling embrace of heroin replaced the creative kick of vodka and kombucha tea.

By the end of the 1990s, the Soviet intellectual, dissident and underground scene effectively disappeared. In 1998, Claude Frioux had written its obituary in Le Monde Diplomatique:

Russia’s intellectuals are now entirely absorbed with questions of material survival, paralysed by a fear of displeasing somebody, and confused about how to deal with the mafia face of power….They are no longer the small islands of lucid dignity that they once were. They are now an amorphous mass, and outside observers comment dismissively on their cynical lack of concern and their total absorption in the business of making ends meet.

Even in Russia, people sitting in unheated flats and using furniture for firewood eventually switched from questions of philosophy to questions of finding scraps of food; undoubtedly in an homage to Bakhtin.

2. Biting the Hand that Feeds You:

A cursory look at instances of mass intellectual awakening/rebellion reveals that such events generally follow periods of increased material wealth and stability. 1968 is the obvious example. In Russia, it was no different. The impoverished and hellish 1930s and 40s gave way to the staid, authoritarian and materialistic 1950s. Yet before the decade was out, Khruschev’s famous Thaw began. Similarly, the wealthy, even ‘decadent’ years of Brezhnev’s stagnation (few in the West realise that Soviet living standards peaked in the mid 1970s, and that it was the time of every baby boomer’s life) preceded the grass roots rebellions of the late 1970s and early 80s that eventually paved the way for Gorbachev’s glasnost.

soviet-rock.JPG

History shows that as soon as (but not a moment before) a country raises a generation of reasonably well fed, educated young people in an ordered, stable society, they will immediately proceed to do their best to undermine and destroy that society, tear up its sick, fraudulent and oppressive underbelly, and seek freedom. Before long, they will become bankrupt and bitter or ‘grown up’ and responsible, and the cycle will continue.

Thus, is it any surprise that after a decade of abject poverty and national trauma beginning in the late 1980s, Russia now witnesses an era of a materially comfortable, socially conservative authoritarianism?

cardboard-putin.JPG

Indeed, it would be useful to keep in mind an article by Other Russia leader Eduard Limonov that appeared in today’s Grani.ru newspaper.

In it, he writes that Putin’s authoritarian system will be overturned not by the impoverished masses, but by a growing wave of educated disaffected youth feeling stifled and demanding philosophical rather than material freedom. Thus, unlike with the masses, the regime’s capacity for delivering the goods economically would no longer be enough to save it.

So where is this new ‘class for itself’, these islands of lucid dignity? We don’t hear much about them in the West, but they are definitely out there. In the field, one group is Limonov’s own National Bolshevik Party foot soldiers, frequently arrested on trumped up sedition charges, and even occasionally killed. On the intellectual front, someone to watch is Kirill Medvedev, a young dissident writer, poet, activist and blogger whose work has recently been profiled by the dashing Russian-American factotum and animal lover Keith Gessen in his own thick journal n+1. What kinds of things can we expect from this new generation? Well, a recent essay posted on Medvedev’s site quotes the following poem:

Literature Will Be Tested

Entire literatures consisting of subtle turns of phrase
will be tested to prove
that where there was oppression,
there were also rebellions.
By the prayers of earthly creatures to heavenly beings
it will be shown that the early creatures trampled one another.
Their rarefied verbal music will testify
that many did not have enough to eat.

Don’t write off Medvedev’s Russia quite yet.

 

The Second Coming of the Exile?

Saturday, June 28th, 2008

 exile-saved.JPG

Mysterious message spotted on their website. Will update with more information.

Putin’s Football Philosophy: Peter the Great, or Perestroika?

Sunday, June 22nd, 2008

I’m not the nationalistic sort. I count in my head in English, I think Ukrainians are alright, at heart. Even the Georgians, when they behave. I quietly enjoy the good news from back home and decry the bad, with the equal dose of ironic detachment and self-referential mockery demanded of my generation.

whatever.jpg

Yet I’d just lost my voice after two hours spent in a delirious jingoistic orgy as Russia devastated the Dutch. Watching Russia’s mesmerising play unlocked something primal in me, something dark, smouldering, bloodlustily beautiful.

nochnoi-dozor.JPG

60 minutes in: caught myself trying to superglue a small Russia flag to my neighbour’s front door.

10 minutes into overtime: searching Aeroflot’s website, rearing to go liberate my brother Slavs in Kosovo and Estonia.

russians-in-kosovo.JPG

But enough about me: what does this success say about Russia? Two important parallels stand out:

 

1: The last time Russia triumphed under the closest thing to a Dutch coach was when Peter the Great applied what he learned in Holland to drag his country into modernity. He studied ship building in Amsterdam, kept a Dutch mistress and in addition to technological advances tried to introduce to Russia a protestant spirit of hard work and self reliance. Yet in many ways, Peter’s reign was a culturally repressive one. Peter’s contempt for indigenous Russian traditions and institutions meant that it was only during Pushkin that the Russian language and culture had begun to shed their aura of inferiority.

2: The last time Russia faced the Dutch in a European championship was 1988, at the heyday of Gorbachev’s Perestroika, which remade the country’s social and intellectual fabric. Incidentally, the inspirations for Gorbachev’s reforms were also Western European. Perestroika and ‘new thinking’ were heavily influenced by Italian Eurocommunism and Gramscism. Unlike Peter’s reforms, however, Perestroika ended up being a dismal failure in economic, military and technological terms. Yet it produced an immense cultural and creative awakening.

glasnost_poster_1.jpg

So was the match a metaphor for a national renaissance, and if so, which kind?

From a purely sporting standpoint, the renaissance of Russia’s team transcends these historical parallels. Hiddink did not remake the squad in the Western European image; in fact, he achieved what had eluded both Gorbachev and Peter the Great – using Western know how to activate and enhance inherent Russian strengths. In his brilliant piece in the Guardian, football historian Jonathan Wilson writes that “Russia’s thrilling commitment to fluidity represents a return to the fundamentals of their own footballing heritage”: after years in the wilderness, Arshavin and co have revived the authentic ‘total football’of the young Soviet side of the 1940s.

ussr-team.JPG

Russia is clearly experiencing a re-birth. Its massive sporting successes (whether in women’s tennis, the Olympics or hockey) after over a decade smarting from the horrors of transition only complement its economic and geopolitical re-assertion. Russia is in the news.

Putin’s rule, like Peter’s, aggressively sought Western engagement and know-how, and embraced with zeal its business (if not political) institutions. These instruments, however, were not used to ‘undo’ or ‘over-ride’ Russian culture as in Peter’s day. In fact, the Putin era was marked by a strained synthesis of economic and commercial Westernisation coupled with a peculiar, artificially inseminated nativism.

nashi1.JPG

The state sanctioned fetishisation of the Soviet Union in popular culture, the Putin-inspired brand of laddism and machismo, the return of the traditional family, the constriction of press freedom, the growing ethnic prejudice and nationalism have been the repressive corollaries of this technical modernisation. Yet in one sense, the net effect is the same as in Peter’s day: a growing austerity and social intolerance. The current renaissance is neither deniable nor progressive.

ussr-holland.JPG

In Euro 1988, the USSR lost to Holland. Like its squad, the Soviet Union itself had run out of steam. Yet the defeat coincided with the flowering of Moscow News, Ogonyok magazine and other independent media, and the general culmination of glasnost, or openness.

The booming, assertive and proud country that won against the Dutch yesterday could not be more different from its beleaguered, teetering predecessor of 20 years ago. Not least because that win came on the heels of the closure of yet another newspaper.

new-russia.JPG

For the New York Times, Russian Poverty Is News NOT Fit to Print

Sunday, June 15th, 2008

Not to be outdone by yesterday’s tennis ‘interviews’ in the Daily Telegraph, this Sunday’s New York Times front page photo made sure no-one skipped straight to the magazine section:

russian-sunbathers.JPG

“Free and Flush, Russians Eager to Roam Abroad”, the headline beamed, in case anyone might also be interested in reading the accompanying article, which happened to be about the new-found prosperity of ordinary Russians. Here are a few interesting titd -bits from the piece:

“The number of Russian tourists visiting countries outside the former Soviet Union grew to 7.1 million in 2006, the last year statistics were available, from 2.6 million in 1995, according to the Russian government.

…[Increased] foreign travel reflects not just Russia’s economic revival under Vladimir V. Putin, but also how the country has become, in some essential ways, normal.

Many Russians interviewed here credited Mr. Putin, the former president and current prime minister, for their ability to travel, saying that he was responsible for Russia’s new prosperity.
If you have some time and a little money, you can travel. Just like everyone else in the world.

“It is now so easy — buy a package tour for $800, and here we are, in paradise,” said Ms. Kasyanova…”

Crickey! With all this globetrotting, is there like, anyone even left in Russia? Well, the New York Times certainly couldn’t care less.

But scholar and Russia blogger Sean Guillory has bothered to track down a few of these non-travelling losers, pickling peppers in Voronezh instead of packing La Scala.

21.7 million losers, to be precise. Yep, that’s the number of Russians living below the Federal subsistence (read: starvation) threshold of $95 dollars a month.

So here’s a little lesson in newsworthiness for the New York Times, next time it wants to devote a front page spread to a social phenomenon gripping Russia:

russian-inequality-chart1.JPG

But then, how on Earth would you work a good bikini shot into such a story?

pensioners1.jpg

Se-Deuced by Russian Tennis Nymphets

Saturday, June 14th, 2008

chakvetadze1.JPG

The English may accuse Russia of bad sportsmanship in the boardroom, but they certainly wouldn’t mind taking a bit of a corporate raiding from the new crop of Soviet bloc sportswomen.

A series of ‘interviews’ to “assess the changes on court” was The Daily Telegraph’s highly plausible excuse to “meet eight rising stars from the east in distinctly non-regulation kit”.

Good to see the Tottygraph fly its lecherous old flag…for the Motherland!

Happy Russia Independence Day Aftermath!!

Friday, June 13th, 2008

id.jpg

russia-day.jpg

Sorry for the silence! Been away celebrating Russia’s Independence Day…from itself.

(It is true: 12 June marked the secession of the Russian republic from the USSR. Not only is the occasion modishly Freudian, but it’s also simply a matter of justice: the US has an independence day, and so is Russia to be left without one?)

I’ll be writing a few proper posts filled with reflection (surely ‘invective’?-ed.) over the weekend but here are some things to keep you busy till then!

INDIE DAY:

rally.jpg
Not content to celebrate Russia Day by relaxing with a crate or two of Soviet Champagne and a Brat 2 DVD, a rather energetic lot of Left wing democracy activists attended street rallies condemning the government’s treatment of dissidents.

EXILE AGONY:

exile-sos.JPG
The beleaguered organ is holding a paypal donations drive to replace its cowardly sponsors. The Moscow Times has the (hopefully exaggerated & premature) obituary!
The epic danse macabre, previously confined to this Blog and a select few other organs, is finally getting picked up in the mainstream English language press, with a vengeance.

Here is a rather good Radio Liberty piece that sums up and contextualises the event.

Mark Ames continues to chronicle the whole dismal affair on Radar Magazine. Read his latest “Russia Independence Day” post here, and weep sardonic tears.

TNK-BR VS RUSSIA BRAWL:

Follow the dirty energy confrontation over oil, foreign drilling and Russian sovereignty! Articles here and here.

Barack? Whatever

Friday, June 6th, 2008

pushkin.JPG

Hey, America! Think your Obama is so special??

A young charismatic man of African descent becomes a national icon, whose eloquence inspires a generation, whose dashing looks send girls fainting and whose liberal politics threaten to derail the establishment?

That sort of thing might still be hot over here, but it is OLD NEWS in Mother Russia.

199 year old news, to be precise.

That’s right, today Russia celebrated the 199th anniversary of the birth of its national poet Alexandr Pushkin, whose life I summarised in the first paragraph.

Pushkin, whose great grandfather was was a freed African slave, was not merely the founding father of indigenous Russian literature. He was Shakespeare, James Dean and Che Guevara rolled into one. (Well, maybe Che Guevara is going a bit far…but he did stand up for liberalism in solidarity with the Decembrists).

He even sported an afro! And died in a duel!!
Go Pushkin!

6 June 1799-10 February 1837

(Thanks to the decidedly cultured Cailtlin Miner LeGrand for reminding me of this splendid occasion!)

PS. Here is an interesting article about Obama, Pushkin and MLK.

Exile Witch Trial Update: It was Political

Friday, June 6th, 2008

So now we know the real reason behind the Federal hounding of the Exile, courtesy of good reporting by the Moscow Times: its associations with dissident leader Eduard Limonov.

limonov.JPG
In my earlier post, I noted that Limonov was a columnist for the paper and that his radical opposition movement had had scores of its members arrested and detained as political prisoners. The latest probe is the latest chapter in the story.

“Federal officials visited the offices of The eXile on Thursday and asked about the newspaper’s relationship with Eduard Limonov, a Kremlin critic who writes a column for the notorious English-language tabloid.”

Read the whole article by Alexander Osipovich here.

And it was good to hear Editor Mark Ames in characteristic fighting spirit:

“Despite his pessimism about The eXile’s future, Ames said he will not tone it down or stop publishing Limonov.

“Hell no,” Ames said when asked whether the column would be canceled. “Limonov was one of the inspirations for this paper.”

Writer’s (Eastern) Block

Thursday, June 5th, 2008

dostoyevsky.JPG

Being 4767 miles away from Manhattan, Moscow has had good reason to feel left out lately.

With all the hullabaloo about ‘oversharing‘, media blogs and New York culture, culminating in the appearance of sultry literary saloniste Emily Gould on the cover of the New York Times Magazine, this Blog has been forced to mantain a dignified, yet distinctly provincial, silence.

Frustrated, I had taken to neurotically refreshing the Gawker homepage several times a minute, scanning the New Republic’s back section, and even reading the obligatory Keith Gessen paean to post-Harvard ennui, All the Sad Young Literary Men (stingingly reviewed here by the critic John Minervini)… in vain.

Not only did the travails of these achingly hip young literati have sorely little to do with my achingly loserish existence, they had even less to do with Russia!

Until now…

In the second issue of the new ‘it’ magazine, “Russia!”, Emily Gould tells all about a devastatingly ‘relevant’ phenomenon sweeping the US literary landscape: the RUSSIAN-AMERICAN WRITER.

Good writing on a very interesting subject with very little to fault it.

All of which still has painfully little to do with my own life, but at least I can now continue to enviously stalk these literary guys with the excuse that I’m just conducting research for future posts.